I've decided I don't much care for starting work mid-week. Finishing mid-week is fine, but starting just leads to lots of "wait, what day is it today? What time do I have to be at work? Oh crap, I should have made up some new lesson plans already!"
As I indicated earlier, the weather is Kyoto wasn't the greatest. It was gorgeous here on Saturday, though. The Matsui's were in town and they took me out to the flower park, where there is some sort of international shrubbery exhbibition, and it was hot hot hot. I was wearing a t-shirt and jeans and wishing I'd opted for some more summery clothes. But on Sunday, by the time I got to Kyoto at 11:30, the sky had clouded over and it was spitting on me. I walked to/around Toji near the station for a while, as it had a pagoda and a flea market, but when I got there the flea market was packing up due to the rain and I couldn't figure out how to get a good view of the pagoda, so I headed off to the hotel to drop off my suitcase (I was worried that all my nice dry clothes packed inside were getting wet by this point). By the time I got there, the rain was pretty much coming down in one solid sheet of water, and if it had been a fancy hotel with a big bouncy bed or a couch instead of six tatami mats and a futon, there is a strong possibility I would have spent the afternoon curled up indoors with a book. But luckily (?) I persevered and headed off to Nanzenji, which was within easy walking distance. I'll admit it was beautiful in the rain, but after a while both my socks and shoes were soaked (not to mention my jeans to the knee), so I decided it was time to go off in search of Kyoto shopping.
My outlook on life improved considerably after I bought dry socks.
In addition to a tiny bathroom, my hotel boasted a large public bath in the basement. A soak would have been really nice, but by the time I got back to my room and into some dry pajamas, there was no way I was able to leave the room again. Instead I just flopped on the futon and watched a bit of The Bourne Supremacy dubbed in Japanese before passing out.
Monday dawned more promising, with sun breaking through the clouds. I headed off to the Takao region outside the city, where I climbed lots of steps (at one point I passed a rather rotund Japanese man as I was going back down, and he glanced at me and puffed in English "Give up!", to which I cheerfully replied "Gambatte!". It's easy to be smug when you're the one going downhill. Unfortunately, I did something tweaky to my knee, because for the next few days whenever I walked downhill it hurt. Huh?) and took in lots of beautiful mountain views.
Aaaaand then it started raining again.
Apparently there's this hike you can do from Jingo-ji to the town of Arashiyama, where there is a train station and a foot bath, and I really wanted to do that. But after walking for an hour (through a very pretty trail area along a river), it started raining even harder and the signs were pointing in opposite directions to different shrines, but no indication of which way would bring me to the town. Now, I'd passed a couple of girls (wearing smart white woolen coats, skirts, and knee-high boots...for a walk that involved mud and climbing over rocks, mind you) so I knew there was something out there, I just didn't know where. By now it was raining pretty hard and I was getting wet feet again, darkness was coming on, and I had no idea where I was. If this had been the middle of a sunny spring afternoon, I probably would have just kept on walking, but under the circumstances I decided to go back.
The bus ride back took an hour and when I got off I discovered that winter had arrived. I don't know exactly how cold it was, but I'd say under 10C. My clothes were far too light for a rainy 10C, and the wet feet and damp hoodie didn't help matters. An enourmous cup of Starbucks tea, new knee-high dry socks, and a 40 minute foot massage later, I was much better equipped to handle the weather.
Once again, I did not make it to the public bath.
Tuesday! Tuesday dawned sunny and promising, if somewhat chilly. I started off at Heian-shrine, which was right up the road from my hotel. There I was stopped by a group of adorable 12 year olds on a school trip. They had to converse with me in English, get my signature (ooh, how film star!) and take a picture with me as part of a school assignment. After that I headed out to Kinkakuji, the famous temple covered in gold leaf. At this point the sun actually broke out through the clouds and lit up the temple and lo! It was shiny! I took many pictures and considered myself happy and treated myself to a cup of matcha and a tiny cake in the tearoom.
Aaaaaaaand then it started raining again. I walked around for a bit more and found a very pretty little untouristed shrine, then gave up and hopped on a bus back to the station. I told myself that there were some sightseeing points around the station and I could go see them, but yeah. That didn't happen. I got to the station, decided I quite liked being dry and warm, and wandered around the shops until it was time for my train. I also found a restaurant specializing in Japanese pickles, and since those are one of my favourite things ever, I had a lunch of rice and pickles. Nutritious? Probably not. Tasty? Hellz yeah.
And then I came home and embraced my sock drawer (so many dry socks! All mine!) and fleece jackets (it's a miracle I didn't cave and buy a new one in Kyoto. Well, not so much a "miracle" as an "inability to find a Uniqlo before closing time") and it was freezing here, too. I didn't want to set up the kotatsu just yet, since it is getting warmer again this weekend, so I just dragged the heater out and plugged it in and wrapped up in a blanket.
So far I am pneumonia-free.